Jebel um Ishrin

Jebel um Ishrin, at 1,753 meters, is Jordan's third highest peak and forms the massive eastern wall of the main Wadi Rum valley. Known as the "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" after T.E. Lawrence's famous book, this imposing massif offers some of the most adventurous and challenging climbing in Wadi Rum.

The Seven Pillars

The name "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" refers to the dramatic series of buttresses and towers that form the western face of Jebel um Ishrin. These massive rock formations dominate the view as you drive through the main valley, creating one of Wadi Rum's most iconic vistas. T.E. Lawrence immortalized them in his book, though historians debate whether he was referring specifically to this mountain or using it as a symbolic title.

Regardless of the historical debate, standing at the base of these towering pillars, you understand why they inspired such legendary writing. The scale is overwhelming-vertical walls rising 500+ meters from the desert floor, carved into distinct towers and buttresses by millions of years of erosion.

The Classic Route: Via Um Ejil (Raqaba Canyon)

Route Overview

• • Grade: Challenging (Class 3-4+)
• • Time: 8-10 hours (often done as multi-day trek)
• • Elevation Gain: Approximately 900m
• • Character: Grand canyon approach, steep steps, narrow traverses, technical finale

The Journey

The classic route to the summit of Jebel um Ishrin is an epic adventure that takes you through some of Wadi Rum's most spectacular terrain:

• 1.
  Um Ejil Canyon (Raqaba Canyon):

  The route begins by ascending through this grand natural chasm. The canyon itself is a spectacular feature-towering walls, narrow passages, and dramatic rock formations. This is one of the most beautiful canyon approaches in Wadi Rum.

• 2.
  Steep Steps and Ramps:

  As you ascend through the canyon system, you encounter increasingly steep terrain. Natural steps and ramps lead upward, requiring careful route-finding and scrambling skills.

• 3.
  Narrow Traverses:

  Several sections involve exposed traverses along narrow ledges. These require a head for heights and careful foot placement. We secure these sections with ropes.

• 4.
  The Technical Finale:

  The final approach to the northern dome involves more technical climbing. This is where the route earns its Class 4+ rating, with some moves requiring good climbing technique.

• 5.
  Summit Plateau:

  The summit area features twin peaks and towers. We typically aim for the northern dome, which offers the most accessible summit and spectacular views.

What Makes Um Ishrin Special

The Scale

At 1,753m, Jebel um Ishrin is only 1 meter shorter than Jebel Rum, making it Jordan's third highest peak. But what really sets it apart is the dramatic vertical relief-the east face rises nearly 700 meters from the valley floor in a single sweep. This creates some of the most impressive walls in Wadi Rum.

The Views

From the summit of Jebel um Ishrin, you have a unique perspective on Wadi Rum:

• • Jebel Rum's entire west face directly across the valley
• • The main Wadi Rum valley stretching north to south
• • Countless other peaks and formations in all directions
• • The vast desert plains extending to Saudi Arabia
• • Wadi Rum village appearing tiny far below

The Challenge

This is one of the most challenging standard routes in Wadi Rum. It requires:

• • Excellent physical fitness and endurance
• • Solid scrambling and basic climbing skills
• • Comfort with significant exposure
• • Good route-finding abilities (with guide support)
• • Mental stamina for a long, committing climb

Petroglyphs and History

The Um Ejil canyon and surrounding areas contain numerous petroglyphs-ancient rock carvings left by Nabataean and earlier peoples. As we climb, I'll point out these historical treasures. They include:

• • Nabataean inscriptions and text
• • Animal carvings (ibex, camels, horses)
• • Human figures and hunting scenes
• • Thamudic script from pre-Islamic times

These carvings remind us that people have been traveling through these canyons for thousands of years. We're following in very ancient footsteps.

The Multi-Day Experience

I highly recommend doing Jebel um Ishrin as a multi-day adventure. Here's a typical itinerary:

Day 1: Approach and Base Camp

• • Drive to the base of the mountain
• • Hike into Um Ejil canyon
• • Set up camp at a scenic spot in or near the canyon
• • Traditional Bedouin dinner and stories under the stars

Day 2: Summit Day

• • Early start (sunrise from camp is spectacular)
• • Climb through the canyon and up to the summit
• • Option to camp on summit plateau or descend to base camp
• • Sunset from the summit is unforgettable

Day 3: Descent and Return

• • Sunrise from summit (if camping on top)
• • Careful descent back through the route
• • Return to vehicles and drive back to village

Best Season

Optimal Months: October through April. This long climb requires cool temperatures. Summer is not recommended due to extreme heat and the length of the climb.

Spring (March-April): Wildflowers may bloom in the canyons after winter rains, adding extra beauty to the approach.

Jebel um Ishrin represents everything that makes Wadi Rum special-dramatic landscapes, challenging climbing, ancient history, and the sense of true adventure. It's not the easiest climb, but for those ready for the challenge, it's absolutely unforgettable.