Understanding Wadi Rum's grading systems
Wadi Rum uses multiple grading systems depending on the type of climbing. Traditional Bedouin routes are often graded using the British Alpine System, while technical rock climbs use French sport grades or UIAA grades. Understanding these systems helps you choose appropriate routes for your skill level.
Most routes in Tony Howard's guidebook use French grades (e.g., 5a, 6b) or Alpine grades (F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED).
Used for multi-pitch routes and mountain scrambles. Considers length, commitment, exposure, and technical difficulty.
Simple scrambling, minimal technical difficulty. Hands occasionally needed for balance.
Example: Jebel El Mayeen South Ridge
Easy climbing with some exposure. Rope may be useful for less experienced climbers.
Example: Easy Bedouin routes
Sustained climbing with significant exposure. Rope and protection required. Grade II-III climbing.
Example: Hammad's Route (Jebel Rum)
Serious climbing with sustained difficulties. Grade III-IV moves. Good technique essential.
Example: Technical multi-pitch routes
Very serious routes with sustained hard climbing. Grade IV-V+. High commitment.
Example: Advanced technical routes
Extremely serious routes. Grade VI and above. Expert climbers only.
Example: Hardest technical climbs in Rum
Note: Alpine grades may have modifiers: Sup (Superior/harder) or Inf (Inferior/easier). For example, "AD Sup" is harder than "AD" but easier than "D".
Used for individual pitches and sport climbing routes. Indicates the hardest move on the route.
Easy climbing, large holds
Moderate, good technique needed
Intermediate, strength required
Advanced, sustained difficulty
Expert level, powerful moves
Elite climbing
| French | YDS (USA) | British | UIAA |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | 5.5 | Mod | III |
| 5a | 5.6 | VD | IV |
| 5b | 5.7 | S | V- |
| 5c | 5.8 | HS | V |
| 6a | 5.9 | VS | VI- |
| 6a+ | 5.10a | HVS | VI |
| 6b | 5.10b | E1 | VI+ |
| 6c | 5.10d | E2 | VII- |
| 7a | 5.11b | E3 | VII+ |
Walking with occasional use of hands for balance. No exposure.
Frequent use of hands. Some exposure. Route-finding important.
Sustained scrambling with significant exposure. Rope may be desired. Climbing skills useful.
Our guides will help you choose routes matching your ability
