Bedouin-Style Mountaineering
Crazy Ibex Route
Bedan Majnoun • بدان مجنون
"They're Crazy, These Ibex!"
Jebel Um Ishrin Summit • 1,753m
"They're Crazy, These Ibex!"
Jebel Um Ishrin Summit • 1,753m
For years, climbers searched for the legendary route that allowed Suleiman, a Bedouin shepherd, to reach the summit of Umm Ishrin at the beginning of the 20th century. After numerous attempts around the massif, the route was finally discovered by Talal Awad, Robert Mandin, and Ali Hamad following a suggested line from Ali Hamad.
This route embodies all the characteristics of a true Bedouin path: it follows the tracks of ibex (wild mountain goats), the difficulties are rare and never exceed grade 4, and evidence of hand-carved holds suggests ancient use. When Talal crossed the famous "Ibex Slab," he exclaimed "Bedan Majnoun!" - "They're crazy, these ibex!" - and the route earned its name.
The route is comparable in difficulty to Sabbah's Route (R8) and easier than Hammad's Route (R10). While a 50m rope will reassure most climbers, it's clear that legendary Bedouin climbers like Sabbah or Hammad would have soloed this route without hesitation. The first ascent party took 6 hours round trip, while Nicolas Kalisz and Arnaud Petit completed a repeat in just 3 hours.
Approaching through Wadi Um Ishrin
Through the narrow canyon
Leading Pitch 1 (Grade 3)
The Ibex Slab
Midway - Desert panorama
Following the ibex tracks to Jordan's 3rd highest summit
Approach: Get dropped off at Canyon Assaoud in Wadi Umm Ishrin. Ascend the canyon for about ½ hour, then take the second canyon on the left via a 30m chimney. Exit the chimney to the right and climb the mushroom formations (grade 3).
Continue north to a white patch that you cross on the left (grade 3). You'll reach the Ibex Slab, equipped with 2 belays and 2 pitons. Climb it following the ibex tracks (grade 4).
From the 2nd belay, traverse left on a ledge toward the weak point accessing the domes (human ladder or 5+: a thread protects the descent). Head southwest toward a 25m slab called "the two eyes" (grade 3, thread for descent).
Navigate through the domes toward the top of the canyon. Enter the canyon at its highest point and follow it for 150m. Exit at a south-north chimney system, climbing it to reach a ledge (elevation 1530m).
Follow this ledge east to an easy dome. Navigate toward the next wall, taking another ledge east (elevation 1640m) to a scree couloir leading to the summit ridge (grade 3, thread for descent).
Grade 3 • ~35m
Visible bolted belay from the ledge. Can be soloed by experienced climbers following ibex tracks.
Grade 5 • ~25m
Threads and pitons in place. Technical slab climbing with good protection.
Grade 5 • ~10m
Short exposed traverse left with a reachy/overhang move. Updated thread (July 2020) makes it less scary!
⚠️ Update July 2020: Islam Maani added a new thread on the traverse, making the exposed move significantly safer.
Following Pitch 2 - Grade 5 slab
Belaying at Pitch 3 - The exposed traverse
Detailed route information and views
Legend:
📍 Route Finding: The route is well-cairned throughout. After the technical pitches, enjoy the route-finding challenge through the domes, crossing the canyon from the west end where it's not very deep, then heading south to a gully that leads directly to the peak.
Approaching the summit ridge
Summit of Jebel Um Ishrin - 1,753m
Overlooking Rum Village and Jebel Rum - Only 1 meter lower than Jordan's 2nd highest peak!
Primary Method: Reverse the route. The descent follows the same path back down.
Technical Pitches: You have two options:
Additional Rappel: One possible short rappel in the small siq if you go deeper inside during descent.
⚠️ Important: Inspect all threads and anchors before use. The route is well-maintained but desert conditions can affect equipment over time.
Rope
60m rope recommended (50m minimum)
Climbing Gear
Harness, helmet, belay device, quickdraws
Water
3-4 liters per person minimum
Sun Protection
Hat, sunscreen, sunglasses
Appropriate Footwear
Approach shoes or light climbing shoes
Food & Snacks
Energy bars, lunch for full day
Check out more photos and videos of this epic route on Instagram
View on Instagram →Photo Credits:
Photos by Ali Hasan and Islam Maani. Special thanks to Islam Maani for contributing photos and improving the route safety with additional protection.
Experience this legendary Bedouin-style route to one of Jordan's highest peaks. Our certified local guides know every hold and can safely lead you to the summit.
